strut brace

[thomasged]

Anyone know a website that sells upper strut braces for a twingo gt?
Cheers

 

[singlespeed]

Front - Unless you've already changed the rubber topmounts for solid ones and running something sticky, I wouldn't bother. There would be more geometry change due to the rubber deforming than your going to improve by bracing the turret tops which are so close to the bulkhead.

Rear - OMP brace. I'm not even going there

 

[jamiejamweb]

Why whats wrong with the rear omp brace?

 

[singlespeed]

Why whats wrong with the rear omp brace?

Personally I think they are going to be pointless...
The OMP rear brace attaches to the top of the damper, which has rubber mounts anyway as part of their fittings.
The main issue I have with them is thet attach to the dampers, which limit the speed of the wheels moving up and down (or the chassis moving up/down) and being rubber bushed top and bottom, they won't add much stiffness to the suspension. The rear beam (therefore wheels etc) attaches to the floor pan nowhere near the brace. The designed deflection of the trailing arms of the beam assembly and the twist in the torsion beam is what controls the rear geometry, so stiffening the chassis to keep the beam attachment points stable with reference to the front end would be ideal.

 

[jamiejamweb]

What about the rear anti-roll bar then?

 

[jamiejamweb]

Think I've found the problem with my strut brace the wholes aren't correct so stud is rubbing on the outer edge of the whole

 

[oscar]

rear anti roll bar is something a little bit different from the rear strut brace. it helps to push the opposite wheel down, when the other rises up wheras the strut brace is designed to stop flex and ideally keep the dampers at the same height although with rubber bushing's and mounts ... this is nigh on impossible to achieve. a true brace would be metal to metal, ideally a welded or bolt on part with no flexible rubber in between.

that's the only job an anti roll bar has, it will make your car a little tail happy but that's ideal if you are a confident driver and prefer oversteer to understeer. personally i prefer oversteer bias, it's much easier to snap and catch

 

[singlespeed]

If your able to lift an inside rear wheel, then the rear beam is already plenty stiff enough and adding extra stiffness to the beam axle will tend to make the wheel lift easier. Maybe looks good, but an airborne tyre won't have much grip

 

[jamiejamweb]

Yeah I know what the anti-roll bar does was just asking if you have fitted one and it'll you could feel any difference? and as mine is standard the lifting of the wheel doesn't happen

 

[singlespeed]

Yeah I know what the anti-roll bar does was just asking if you have fitted one and it'll you could feel any difference? and as mine is standard the lifting of the wheel doesn't happen

No, I haven't fitted one. I'm fairly happy with the front/rear handling balance of mine now.

Certainly possible to get rear wheel lift on a Cupped 133. Al with R888 rubber
post16280.html

 

[mwalsh]

1*2's in my view needed it, 133 not so much. i do have one installed and have tracked it before and afterwards.

My thoughts are, you will forget you have it on, you will snap out the back end in a public road or track. Soft setting is all you need.
When you find that perfect balance on the track it is one hell of a rocket in the corners, on normal roads, just be a plane jane

 

[singlespeed]

1*2's in my view needed it, 133 not so much. i do have one installed and have tracked it before and afterwards.

My thoughts are, you will forget you have it on, you will snap out the back end in a public road or track. Soft setting is all you need.
When you find that perfect balance on the track it is one hell of a rocket in the corners, on normal roads, just be a plane jane

The 133 cup spring rates are higher than the 1*2 Clio and the front roll centre is going to be different. So, what benefits the 1*2 may be overkill for us, as Orb has occasionally found out ^^^

 

[Spitfire1]

OK I'll give you a quick run down on what I've fitted - but I'm a lonely 1.2 N/A with a few up-grades but basically the same as a GT when it comes to suspension :shock: :lol: :lol:

Starting off with - :twisted:
1. Coilovers - I'm running Bilstein B14 -lowered all round by about 25mm
2. Ktec Solid top mounts - mounted the same time as the Bilsteins so the difference was not as noticeable.
3. Camber bolts fitted to the front - currently running 2 Deg Neg on the front.
4. The rear is shimmed using Pure Motor sport shims - for both toe and camber
5. Powerflex lower wishbone bushes - these do make a very big difference.
6. Powerflex outer anti roll bar drop links bushes
7. Powerflex dog bone mod (engine to sub frame)
8. Whiteline rear anti roll bar - ties the front and back very nicely, the overall feel of the car makes you feel very confident
9. Set of TD Pro Race 1.2 alloys 15" x 7" - again reduces the un-sprung weight on the axle, makes the car feel more stable, certainly with all the above fitted.

Still to come and currently being developed for me is a Front top brace which is being manufactured by Pure Motorsport as we speak - the revised prototype is in production as we speak.

So if you want to make your GT handle a little better then you need to start considering some of the above, the best value / mod was the lower wish bone bushes, they made a dramatic change to the car as you don't realise until you put some decent coilovers on just how elastic the bushes are - they are CRAP

One thing I will say, get yourself a decent alignment check done and have the car set correctly, you will be surprised just how far off a standard car can be even new from the factory.

As for the rear strut brace - I can't see the point, your springs are acting on the swing arm / floor pan so all you are controlling is the shock so the loading is nowhere near as high as the front, it would be a different story if you converted to coilovers on the back.

My car is under powered but it makes up for it in it's ability to go around bends like a go-cart.

Hope this helps.

Rob.

 

[mwalsh]

1*2's in my view needed it, 133 not so much. i do have one installed and have tracked it before and afterwards.

My thoughts are, you will forget you have it on, you will snap out the back end in a public road or track. Soft setting is all you need.
When you find that perfect balance on the track it is one hell of a rocket in the corners, on normal roads, just be a plane jane

The 133 cup spring rates are higher than the 1*2 Clio and the front roll centre is going to be different. So, what benefits the 1*2 may be overkill for us, as Orb has occasionally found out ^^^

a few times i've hit the bend a little to fast and have braked going around it ( novice track experience ) to find the back end snapping, would of been safer to of over shot the bend lol.
When on road i know its that yet on track a few times i've completely forgot a braked in a point i shouldn't have as i've carried to much speed =/