Forza's Twingo133 (p2: upgrade 3, Vibratechnics)

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Forza

Forza

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2012
Messages
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Location
Helmond, The Netherlands.
Decided to start a progress tread for my Little B*stard. I have some mods planned for it, which are listed below. I had it chipped by Henk from Fastchip, so it was time to start a progress tread I guess :) .

Here's my RS:


Click the picture for more photos and higher resolutions.

Mods so far:

Engine:
BMC panel filter
Middle damper removed
Remap by Fastchip: 119.3 hp at the wheels

Interior:
Phase 2 speedo cover
Focal compo speaker set
Pioneer headunit

Wishlist (in that order):
BC-Racing coilovers
Braid 15" Fullrace Maxlights wrapped in Kumho Ecsta XS Ku36 205/50 R15
Vibratechnics Engine/gearbox mounts
Ferrodo DS2500 brakepads
Inoxline-Perfomance Catback exhaust

Update 1: Remap by Fastchip.

The remap was done on the Tovami Dynojet in Goes (the Netherlands), one of the most accurate dyno's out there.



This was the first run. Sound is a bit f*cked, but you get the idea.

[youtube]4ykzz921Ncw[/youtube]

And the run after tuning, sound is crap again.

[youtube]MNJalycQngA[/youtube]
 
Yes, 119.3 at the wheels. It's hard to say what the power at the flywheel is. Depends who you talk to, but drivetrain losses are generally between 12% and 15%. So power at the flywheel is about 133.6 to 137.2 hp. When the car was on the dyno, the inlet-temperatures were pretty high. In real life driving, power at the wheels is over 120 hp. Which is pretty high, according to the tuner this was the most powerfull Twingo he had tuned, and he's tuned alot of them. Most don't even go over 115 at the wheels.
 
Got some rubber for the winter times:



Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 - 16x7J ET45 with Pirelli Snowcontrol 2 in 195/45R16. All 2nd hand, but virtually new.
 
So last sunday I went to the Nurburgring. Did two "slow" laps as I went of track with two wheels after a few corners the first lap :roll: . Definitely needs better tires and brakes. I already ordered some new disks and DS2500 all around. But I'm still not sure what tire and wheel combination will look cool and grip hard :) . 15" has lots of (cheap) tire choices, 16" already has a lot less and 17" is very limited, for semi-slicks that is.

And at the Nurburgring this photo was taken of my car:



Pretty :) .
 
My car needed a service, first one in the 2 years I own it :oops: . I figured I could simultaneously upgrade some parts. The brakes are now Brembo HC with Ferodo DS2500 pads all around and Goodridge stainless steel brake lines. Also had the gearbox oil changed to fully synthetic.

These were the upgrades I wanted beforehand, then came the call from the dealer ... topmount bearings are shot. Which meant the whole shock had to come apart, this meant it wouldn't be a bad time to fit some H&R lowering springs.

The same day I picked up my car I also bought some second hand rims and tires, but both are virtually new:



Been a very expensive week :? . But it handles even better now, and a weird feeling I had when turning is gone, so I guess the topmount bearings have been bad since I bought the car. All is well now fortunately and I'm very satisfied with the result :) .

One more upgrade would be some camberbolts and then it's somewhat more Nurbrugring ready :) .
 
They're 16x7 et37. Someone on a Dutch Twingo forum has 17x7 in et37 with the same lowering springs (he does have the camberbolts in already ) and has no problems with the high offset. So i'm hoping it will go well :) .

FXJfAY.jpg


Looks fantastic I think :D .
 
Unfortunately they're rubbing pretty badly in the rear when going over speed bumps and larger bumps in the road. So i'm getting rid of them, they did look good tho :)



The red car above has 195 standard road tires and he doesn't have problems with rubbing, but he tried 205 tires which did rub. The wider 205 semi slicks are just to wide with ET37.
 
You don't need to get rid of the wheels.
Instead get rid of the metal lip on the inside of the arch that is causing the rubbing.
Hammer and grinding disc can do wonders.
 
There's no metal lip, it's a black plastic thing, i think that it is the filler neck of the fuel tank...

gaEsqO.jpg
 
Well after a few bumps and noises from the back there were scratches on the tires from the top bolt that holds the arch in place. So it's touching the arch when compressed.

I'm sure I saw pictures from a Twingo which had it's rear arches and bumper removed. I would like to see if it's possible to trim away some material from the inner edge of the arch, this could solve the problem. Maybe someone could dig them up, I can't find them :oops: .
 
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