Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Twingo Technical & Detailing Information
Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust, Intake
Horn not working...
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support Twingo Forum:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="singlespeed" data-source="post: 161235" data-attributes="member: 264"><p>Ive just has a look at the wiring diagrams and from the "Monolever" stalk to the "Main Electromagmetic Horn" :lol: is a simple orange wire which runs from connection A4 on the switch connector through fuse F38 then changes colour to violet to the horn and then to chassis earth.... So, the horn does work, so its not going to be anything between the switch and the horn.</p><p></p><p>The rotary "Monolever" has three electrical feeds. Confusingly labled</p><p>F21 (20amp)- Horn and lights switch</p><p>F25 (5amp)- Horn and lights switch</p><p>F15 (5amp)- Horn and lights switch</p><p></p><p>Looking at the functions of the wires, it looks like F21 is the only one actually feed the horn but I can't be certain how the switch is configured inside and it will take ages to work around the diagrams</p><p></p><p>Check the three fuses listed above (and F38) are sound, with clean legs and fitted correctly to get a good contact. It takes a fair ammount of power to drive the horn and if some of the current is being limitted by a poor connection....</p><p></p><p>If that hasn't curred it, pull the fuses that go from the switch to the lights. F32, F33, F34, F35 (added F42 and F43 sidelights). That way, theres not going to be any extra electrical load on the horn curcuit from the lights being lit. So, if the horn still plays up, the fault its very likely to be within the switch or the connector onto the switch</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="singlespeed, post: 161235, member: 264"] Ive just has a look at the wiring diagrams and from the "Monolever" stalk to the "Main Electromagmetic Horn" :lol: is a simple orange wire which runs from connection A4 on the switch connector through fuse F38 then changes colour to violet to the horn and then to chassis earth.... So, the horn does work, so its not going to be anything between the switch and the horn. The rotary "Monolever" has three electrical feeds. Confusingly labled F21 (20amp)- Horn and lights switch F25 (5amp)- Horn and lights switch F15 (5amp)- Horn and lights switch Looking at the functions of the wires, it looks like F21 is the only one actually feed the horn but I can't be certain how the switch is configured inside and it will take ages to work around the diagrams Check the three fuses listed above (and F38) are sound, with clean legs and fitted correctly to get a good contact. It takes a fair ammount of power to drive the horn and if some of the current is being limitted by a poor connection.... If that hasn't curred it, pull the fuses that go from the switch to the lights. F32, F33, F34, F35 (added F42 and F43 sidelights). That way, theres not going to be any extra electrical load on the horn curcuit from the lights being lit. So, if the horn still plays up, the fault its very likely to be within the switch or the connector onto the switch [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Twingo Technical & Detailing Information
Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust, Intake
Horn not working...
Top