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Twingo Technical & Detailing Information
Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust, Intake
Horn not working...
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<blockquote data-quote="oscar" data-source="post: 161222" data-attributes="member: 2757"><p>no worries sir! basically get a hold of a multimeter, set it to the lowest resistance setting in -ohms (thats the little horse shoe symbol maggi), take the horns connectors out from the horn itself and positive (red) into one of the pin holes and the negative (black) into the other pin hole and take a reading, repeating for the horn connector which will test the horn itself and then the loom side of the connector which will test the wiring. you should expect to see a couple of hundred ohms in resistance but offcourse i'll get you the exact resistance soon enough when i'm next at an auto-data computer on thursday.</p><p></p><p>as a rule of thumb, if the readings going up and down all over the place it means the battery in the multimeter is done for. should you get an infinite reading (this shows as a reading of 1) on a multimeter, that indicates that part you are testing is done for and needs replacing. broken wire scenario</p><p></p><p>the other way to do it is for continuity, set it to volts (lowest setting) -V and then stick the prongs in the connectors, turn the ignition on and beep the horn to test if the loom is getting it's feed of 6/12 Volts. if the connector / loom is feeding the horn the 12 volts when the horns pressed, this shows that the wiring is fine and that the horn module itself is faulty. this one would probably be the easier option mate, but this is a good way to check anything electrical no matter what it is you are testing <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> hope i've not slevered on and confused you</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oscar, post: 161222, member: 2757"] no worries sir! basically get a hold of a multimeter, set it to the lowest resistance setting in -ohms (thats the little horse shoe symbol maggi), take the horns connectors out from the horn itself and positive (red) into one of the pin holes and the negative (black) into the other pin hole and take a reading, repeating for the horn connector which will test the horn itself and then the loom side of the connector which will test the wiring. you should expect to see a couple of hundred ohms in resistance but offcourse i'll get you the exact resistance soon enough when i'm next at an auto-data computer on thursday. as a rule of thumb, if the readings going up and down all over the place it means the battery in the multimeter is done for. should you get an infinite reading (this shows as a reading of 1) on a multimeter, that indicates that part you are testing is done for and needs replacing. broken wire scenario the other way to do it is for continuity, set it to volts (lowest setting) -V and then stick the prongs in the connectors, turn the ignition on and beep the horn to test if the loom is getting it's feed of 6/12 Volts. if the connector / loom is feeding the horn the 12 volts when the horns pressed, this shows that the wiring is fine and that the horn module itself is faulty. this one would probably be the easier option mate, but this is a good way to check anything electrical no matter what it is you are testing :) hope i've not slevered on and confused you [/QUOTE]
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Twingo Technical & Detailing Information
Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust, Intake
Horn not working...
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